Nobody walks out to their car in the morning and thinks “my crankshaft position sensor has failed”. They think “it won’t start”, or “there’s a puddle under it”, or “it makes a noise when I turn”. These guides work the way you actually experience a fault — from the symptom back to the cause.
Browse by Symptom Type
The Four Questions That Narrow Almost Any Fault
Before you search anything, answer these. They eliminate most of the possibilities on their own, and they are the first things a good mechanic will ask you.
- When does it happen? Cold start only, once warm, at idle, under load, at a specific speed, only when turning, only when braking. A fault that appears only when cold is a very different list of causes from one that appears only when hot.
- Is it getting worse? A noise that has been the same for a year is lower priority than one that appeared last week and is now louder.
- Does anything change it? If a vibration disappears when you press the clutch, or a noise changes pitch with road speed rather than engine speed, you have just narrowed it to a handful of parts.
- What changed just before? A service, new tyres, a pothole, a jump start, fuel from an unfamiliar station, or a cold snap. New faults very often follow recent events.
Latest Troubleshooting Guides
All problem guides ›-
Windshield Wipers Stop Working or Move Slowly
When wipers won’t move or crawl across the glass, check the fuse, then the motor and linkage. This is a different fault…
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Headlights Dim or Flicker While Driving
Headlights that dim at idle or flicker as you drive usually point to the charging system or a poor connection, not the…
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AC Blows Cold Only While Driving, Warm at Idle
An AC that cools well at speed but warms up when you stop is usually short of airflow across the condenser —…
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Car Heater Blows Cold Air
A car heater runs on engine coolant, so cold air from the vents usually means low coolant, an engine that isn’t warming…
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Car Windows Fog Up Inside and Won’t Clear
Inside fogging means moisture in the cabin that the climate system isn’t clearing. Check the simple settings first — and know when…
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Power Steering Whine When Turning the Wheel
A whining or moaning noise that rises as you turn the steering wheel points to the power steering pump — and low…
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Car Pulls to the Left or Right While Driving
A car that drifts to one side on a straight road is telling you something is uneven. Check tyre pressures first —…
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Rattling Noise on Cold Start That Goes Away
A rattle that appears only when the engine is cold and fades within seconds can be normal — or the first warning…
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Car Smells Like Burning Oil
A hot, acrid oil smell almost always means oil is reaching the exhaust or engine block. Here’s how to find the source…
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Smoke Coming From Under the Hood (Steam vs Smoke)
Not everything rising from under the hood is dangerous, but some of it is. Here’s how to tell coolant steam from burning…
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Engine RPM Surges Up and Down at a Steady Speed
When revs rise and fall while your foot is steady, the engine or transmission is changing something it shouldn’t. Here’s how to…
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Car Idles Too High (Revs Stay Above 1,000 RPM)
A warm engine that idles well above its normal speed is usually drawing in extra air or has been told it’s cold.…
Chock the wheels, use axle stands rather than a jack alone, let hot components cool, and disconnect the battery before touching wiring. Brakes, steering, fuel lines, airbags and the orange high-voltage cabling on hybrids and EVs can cause serious injury or death if handled incorrectly. If a job is beyond your tools or experience, stop and book a qualified mechanic — there is no shame in it and it is always cheaper than the alternative.